Brewster Fish House Salmon

Dining at Brewster Fish House a Delightful Experience


If you’d like to try a restaurant, but their dinner prices are a bit high for your budget, lunch is a great option. It allows you to sample a chef’s flavor profiles without the big price dinner sometimes carries. It also gives you a good idea if you would like to go back for dinner.

The Brewster Fish House is a former farm stand and then fish market that has evolved into a contemporary dining establishment. It’s not usual to see lines out the door in the summer, at least in part because they don’t take reservations. The interior is comfortable with stenciled wood floors, wainscoting and art that reflects both its past with historical photographs and its menu with whimsical fish.

It was a Saturday afternoon, so we decided to do a leisurely lunch. We started with a soup course. My husband ordered the Billi Bi ($6) from the specials page. It was basically a chowder made with mussels and it was such a pleasant surprise. Six tender muscles were nestled in a flavorful cream based broth that was colored a lovely shade of peach.

The clam chowder ($6) was equally wonderful, with chopped bits of clams, white fish, ribbons of leeks and small diced potatoes. The broth had a very unique clam flavor – not briny, but pure sweet clam.

It’s a fact that my husband has not been able to resist telling everyone he knows that his Cioppino ($18) is the best he’s ever had. “Better than the one you had in San Francisco?” someone asked. “Yes, and only $18,” was his answer.

The tomato and fennel based broth was perfectly seasoned, and filled with three clams, three mussels and three shrimp in shell. A piece of cod was tucked in the bottom along with rings of calamari. Tentacles of squid were perfectly placed within the dish to create an artful visual effect. The dish was topped with an oyster in its shell with a toasted garlic crostini on the side.

It was a beautiful meal in every way – and each individual type of seafood was cooked perfectly, which is hard to accomplish in a dish with such a diversity of seafood.

My grilled True North salmon ($17) was a light dish which nicely reflected a lunch the size a lunch entrée should be. The salmon was lean with grill marks that were enhanced by the cross vertical lines of Dijon enhanced yogurt sauce that added a piquant flavor. The hot salmon was placed on a bed of spinach in a way that wilted the spinach just enough to be a cross between a salad and a perfectly cooked vegetable. Strips of thinly sliced prosciutto seasoned the spinach.

I love salmon, but rarely order it out because farm raised salmon scares me. But I had done research on True North Salmon before we dined out and the company is devoted to clean practices and non GMO, so I decided to give it a chance. I wasn’t sorry.

For a beverage, my husband ordered a bottle of Delirium Tremens ($10), which the menu touted as one of the best beers in the world. The slightly effervescent hoppy beer was indeed a delight. The minerality of my glass of Maison L’Envoyé white burgundy ($12) made it a fine accompaniment to my salmon dish.

In a rare treat (for lunchtime), we ordered crème brulee ($10) to share for dessert. The custard had discernable bits of real vanilla bean and the crunch of the torched sugar topping was pleasing to the ear and to the taste buds.

It was a perfect ending for a near perfect meal. Our lunch at the Brewster Fish House did in fact convince us that the chef is spot on in his flavors and presentation. It pretty much guaranteed we’ll go back for dinner.

Brewster Fish House, 2208 Main St., 508-896-7867,

Hours: serving lunch and dinner daily from 11:30 a.m. in season.

Portuguese Bluefish Cakes 3

Portuguese Bluefish Cakes

Meet the Fisherman: Tom Smith

Tom Smith grew up fishing out of Rock Harbor on the charter boats.  After he graduated from high school in 1979, he went down to Florida to fish for a while.  While there he learned how to gill net in a new way.  With traditional gill netting, fishermen lay their nets at night and then haul them in the next day.

“With this Florida fishery, they would find a school of fish and circle around them and then they would haul it right back so the net is never in the water for very long,” Tom says.  “The yield is really high quality because the fish are never old.”

Tom Smith with bluefish

In 1981, when he was back on Cape Cod, Tom decided to try gillnetting for bluefish the Florida way.  He’s been doing it out of Provincetown Harbor ever since on his fishing vessel Sea Wolf, and today he is the last remaining permit holder to gillnet for bluefish.

The bluefish season starts in the beginning of May and lasts until the end of September.  Tom and his crew of one or two go out pretty much every day in season.  They fish about half the time in Cape Cod Bay and the other half on the back side of the Cape or in Nantucket Sound.

“We go out and we find a school of fish and we circle around them and then once we make the circle we go inside it and start beating on the deck and doing donuts and making a lot of noise,” Tom says.  “That makes them spook into the net.  And then after a few minutes we go to the end and start hauling back immediately.  It’s like an hour start to finish and everything comes in alive.”

In deeper water, they use sonars and fish finders to locate the fish, but in shallow water the sonar doesn’t work so they do it the “old school” way.  They go out with a spinning rod and look for slicks where the fish are feeding.

Once caught, the fish are bled immediately by cutting their throat.  That pumps all the blood out of them and makes for a milder fish.  Then they are packed in a brining solution of half water and half ice to get them really cold, really quickly.

Bluefish on ice

Bluefish has gotten a lot more respect in the last ten years and Tom sells his fish to local seafood markets like Mac’s Seafood, Hatch’s Fish Market and Nauset Fish and Lobster Pool, all of which have a regular following for bluefish.

In October and November, Tim fishes for tuna with a rod and reel until the season closes, usually in mid-November.  In the winter, he does some shell fishing, but he spends most of his time building new nets.

“That’s a full time job,” he says.  “We order the twine and we hang them on our leads and corks which we reuse.  The leads take it to the bottom and the corks make it stand upright.  We’re able to recycle those but the netting has to be replaced because the bluefish have razorblades for teeth.  We replace it every year.”

Tom’s favorite way to eat bluefish is to take a small one and cut the dark meat out.  He then cuts the fish into strips, seasons it with salt and pepper, dredges it in flour or corn meal and fries it in hot oil.

We love bluefish in our family, and our favorite recipe for it is Portuguese Bluefish Cakes.  The combination of potatoes, garlic, onion and chorizo really brings out a great flavor in the bluefish that even the kids will eat.  You could make this recipe with leftover bluefish, but I always use fresh.

Portuguese Bluefish Cakes
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Portuguese Bluefish Cakes
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Print Recipe
  • 1 pound bluefish fillets
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 2 medium potatoes , peeled
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 small onion , fine diced
  • 1 clove garlic , minced
  • 3 tablespoons chorizo sausage , casing removed, fine diced
  • 1 tablespoon fresh parsley , chopped
  • 1 egg , beaten
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
  • 1/4 cup corn meal
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  1. Place bluefish in a baking pan and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add wine to pan and bake at 350 for 15 minutes.
  2. In the meantime, boil potatoes in salted water until fork tender, about 20 minutes.
  3. In a small cast iron pan, cook onion and garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add chorizo sausage and cook until onion is translucent, about another 3 minutes.
  4. When bluefish has cooled slightly, remove the darkest part and discard. Flake the rest of the fish into a large bowl.
  5. Grate cooked potatoes and add to fish. Add onion/chorizo mixture, parsley, egg, salt and pepper and mix well.
  6. Divide mixture into six equal patties. On a plate mix together corn meal and flour. Dip each fish cake into corn meal mixture and turn over to coat both sides.
  7. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in large cast iron pan. Fry fish cakes until golden brown on both sides.
  8. Serve on a bed of greens with sriracha tartar sauce.
Sriracha Tartar Sauce:
  1. Mix 4 tablespoons organic mayonnaise with 2 tablespoons of organic sweet pickle relish and 1 teaspoon sriracha chili sauce.
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